Author: madison.schuttfarms

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How to Crochet a Clementine for Kid’s Play Kitchen

Clementine Crochet Pattern by Maidson – Schutt Farms

A clementine is one of the kid’s favorite play kitchen foods. They love to “peel” and take it apart just as much as they love closing it back up.

This makes it great for young children developing those fine motor skills.

MATERIALS

This post may contain affiliate links. This means that if you purchase products through these links, I may receive commission at no extra cost to you.

Crochet Hook size G, scissors, and tapestry needle (to weave in ends).

Medium weight, 100% Cotton, Size 4 Yarn  

I am using Hobby Lobby. Glowing for the peel and Banana (yes, the light orange yarn is called banana – it’s only available in stores.) for the slices.

STITCHES/ABBREVIATIONS

Chain (CH): Yarn over and pull a loop back through.

Slip Stitch (SS): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Single Crochet (SC): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through the stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Increase Single Crochet (INC): Single crochet twice in the same stitch. This would increase the stitch count by 1 each time completed.

Decrease (DEC): Insert hook in front loop only FLO of stitch 1, insert hook in FLO of stitch 2, complete Single Crochet.  This would decrease the stitch count by 1 each time completed.

Decrease Back Loop Only (DEC BLO): Insert hook in back loop only of stitch 1, insert hook in back loop only of stitch 2, complete Single Crochet.  This would decrease the stitch count by 1 each time completed.

CLEMENTINE CROCHET PATTERN START

SLICES PATTERN

Firstly, we start by making six clementine slices with the following pattern. Using a light orange color, 6 SC in magic circle. (6 SC)

Second Round: 6 INC (12 SC)

Third Round: * SC, INC, repeat from * 5 times. (18 SC)

Fourth Round: * 2 SC, INC, repeat from * 5 times. (24 SC)

Fifth Round: * 2 SC BLO, DEC BLO, Repeat from * 5 more times. (18 SC)

Photo of slices prior to sewing shut.

Leave long tail to assemble and weave in ends.

Next, fold clementine in half and align stitches to create the slice shape. Be sure to fill with poly-fil or similar stuffing prior to sewing the seam fully shut.

Visual of clementine folded in half.

Using a tapestry needle, use the tail to sew each stitch together, tie off and weave in all ends.

Photo of finished clementine slice.

CLEMENTINE PEEL CROCHET PATTERN

Using a darker, brighter orange, create the peel by following the pattern below twice (make two).

First, 6 SC in magic circle. (6 SC)

Second Round: 6 INC (12 SC)

Third Round: * SC, INC, repeat from * 5 times. (18 SC)

Fourth Round: * 2 SC, INC, repeat from * 5 times. (24 SC)

Fifth Round: * 3 SC, INC, repeat from * 5 times. (30 SC)

Sixth – nineth Round: 30 SC (30 SC)

Once both pieces are done, align the top and bottom of the peel to create the sphere that will hold the slices.  Line up the tails and tie together prior to sewing.

Photo of crochet clementine peel.

Ensure all slices fit prior to attaching both pieces.  If it doesn’t fit or if the orange won’t close and stay as desired – you can add a row to the top or bottom of the orange peel (this may be the case depending on the tension used when creating the slices and peel).

Afterwards, use a tapestry needle and the tails to sew 4 stitches of the top and bottom peel together. Finally, tie off both ends and weave all tails. Be sure to weave magic circle tails since slices can be removed.

CLEMENTINE CROCHET PATTERN END

Check out more of my free patterns on my site to create a full pantry of crochet food creations.  All patterns can be found under Teddy’s Kitchen.

Thanks for following along and please share your frosted sugar cookie creations with me on Facebook or Instagram.

If pattern is used to create product inventory to be sold, pattern source “Pattern by Schutt Farms” must be disclosed to buyer.

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How to Crochet a Partial Lemon Slice

Patial Lemon Slice Crochet Pattern by Madison – Schutt Farms

Crochet Pattern Pinterest Template to save for later

Materials

This post may contain affiliate links. This means that if you purchase products through these links, I may receive commission at no extra cost to you.

Crochet Hook size G, 4.00 mm., scissors, and tapestry needle (to assemble and weave in ends).

If you’re new to crochet, you can get started building your tools with this set of hooks from Amazon. You get the most product for your money.

If you already have a lot of hooks, just not in size G yet, you can order just this hook. I would suggest in investing in an ergonomic hook with a larger handle. Almost all of my food creations use this size hook, so it’s a worth it upgrade.

Medium, Size 4 Yarn

Here are the brand and colors I used, but similar colors in other size 4 yarn will yield similar results.

Brand: I love this cotton (sold at Hobby Lobby). Colors #: 326 Curry (Yellow), 12 Buttercup (Lighter Yellow), 6 White

stitches/abbreviations:

Chain (CH): Insert hook and pull back through a loop.

Single Crochet (SC): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through the stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Increase (INC): Single crochet twice in the same stitch. This would increase the stitch count by 1 each time completed.

Partial lemon slice crochet pattern start

In color 12 Buttercup (lighter shade of yellow), using magic circle technique, complete 6 SC. (6 SC).

progression photo of crochet pattern

Remaining pattern is now completed in rows.

First row: 6 INC, CH 1, turn. (12 SC)

Second row: * SC, INC, repeat from * 5x, CH 1, turn. (18 SC)

Third row: * 2 SC, INC, repeat from * 5x, CH 1, turn. (24 SC)

Fourth row: * 3 SC, INC, repeat from * 5x, CH 1, turn. (30 SC)

Fifth Row [Note, we will color change at this end of this row]: * 4 SC INC, repeat from * 5x, change colors to white by pulling through white yarn on the last SC of the row, CH 1, turn. (36 SC)

Sixth Row [Note, we will color change at this end of this row]: * 5 SC INC, repeat from * 5x, change colors to the darker yellow by pulling through darker yellow yarn on the last SC of the row, CH 1, turn. (42 SC).

Cut long tail and tie off.

Repeat the above steps to create two partial lemon slices.

To add wedge detail, using white, from wrong side, pull through a strand in round 6 (white round) and insert strand into Round 1 (middle) to create a white line.  Repeat this 5 – 6 times creating white lines connecting Round 2 and Round 6.

Partial Lemon Slice Assembly

Take both lemon slices and with wrong sides facing in/right sides facing out, line up the rows to sew both pieces together. Using a tapestry needle or your crochet hook, weave the yarn tail (darker yellow color) through the outside stitches of both lemon slices. Once the lemon slice is closed, you can secure the lines of the slice if needed. Tie off and weave the remaining tail inside finished product.

Final Product

Partial lemon slice crochet pattern end

Repeat this pattern as many times as you’d like to create lemon slices for your kids to serve up a family tea party.

Check out more of my free kitchen patterns for Teddy’s Kitchen to create a full pantry.

Thanks for following along and please share your creations with me on Facebook or Instagram.

If pattern is used to create product inventory to be sold, pattern source must be disclosed to buyer.

Additional Crochet Patterns by Schutt Farms

Photo of finished crochet project
Pierogi Crochet PDF Pattern
Crochet Food
Pancake Crochet Pattern Title Page
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How to Crochet Grapes on the Vine

Grapes on the Vine Crochet Pattern by Madison – Schutt Farms

Photo of finished crochet project

My kids love grapes, so I needed to make sure we had some crochet grapes on the vine for our play kitchen.  I decided it makes the most sense to have these “on the vine” to make sure they stay together nicely, and I do not have to worry about my children choking on the small crochet pieces.

MATERIALS

This post may contain affiliate links. This means that if you purchase products through these links, I may receive commission at no extra cost to you.

Crochet Hook size D/3-3.125 mm, scissors, poly-fil or similar stuffing, and tapestry needle (to weave in ends).

Medium weight, 100% Cotton, Size 4 Yarn  

I am using Hobby Lobby 40 Sage for the grapes and 20 Brown for the vine.

STITCHES/ABBREVIATIONS

Chain (CH): Yarn over and pull a loop back through.

Slip Stitch (SS): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Single Crochet (SC): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through the stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Increase Single Crochet (INC): Single crochet twice in the same stitch. This would increase the stitch count by 1 each time completed.

Decrease (DEC): Insert hook in front loop only FLO of stitch 1, insert hook in FLO of stitch 2, complete Single Crochet.  This would decrease the stitch count by 1 each time completed.

Crochet Pattern Pin for Later Image

GRAPES ON THE VINE PATTERN START

GRAPE PATTERN

Using 40 sage, 6 SC in magic circle. (6 SC)

Second Round: 6 INC (12 SC)

Third – Seventh Round: 12 SC (12 SC)

Eighth Round: 6 DEC (6 SC)

Cut long tail.  Fill the grape with poly-fil or similar stuffing prior to sewing the grape closed.  Using a tapestry needle, weave through all 6 single crochet stitches and pull tight to close.  Tie and weave in the ends. 

Photo of final crochet grapes
Image of grapes prior to ends being

Repeat this pattern to create multiple grapes.  I will be making 6 to attach to the vine – but you can make as many as you’d like.

VINE ASSEMBLY

Using 20 brown, chain 5

Grab the first grape to attach. Slip stitch in round 1 of the 1st grape, see photo below of how to insert your hook.

Where to slip stitch to the grape.
Image after slip stitching to first grape.

Continuing on the foundation chain (the vine), 2 SS.

Image after second chain to attach next grape.

Grab second grape, Slip stitch in round 1 of the 2nd grape. Continuing back on the vine, 2 SS back to initial foundation chain.

Complete this step for all grapes. Once the final grape is attached, continue slip stitching back to the top of the vine. It should be 3 SS to the end of the foundation chain. Cut a long tail to tie off and weave in the end.

Finished product of crochet grapes on the vine.

GRAPES ON THE VINE CROCHET PATTERN END

Check out more of my free patterns on my site to create a full pantry of crochet food creations.  All patterns can be found under Teddy’s Kitchen.

Thanks for following along and please share your creations with me on Facebook or Instagram.

If pattern is used to create product inventory to be sold, pattern source “Pattern by Schutt Farms” must be disclosed to buyer.

Pinterest Template of crochet pattern

Additional Crochet Patterns by Schutt Farms

Pierogi Crochet PDF Pattern
Crochet Food
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How to Crochet a Worry Worm

Worry Worm Crochet Pattern by Madison – Schutt Farms

What is a worry worm?

Worry worms are a popular make amongst the crochet community.  Individuals create these items to sell as keychains, sell as mental-health wellness items, leave in random places in their communities for others to find as a surprise gift, or donate them to schools or places where children in need may be able to find one.

A worry worm is created as a round head and a spiral body to crochet the perfect yarn fidget toy.  Worry Worms are accompanied by a poem to introduce and describe how the worry worm should be used.  The spiral body of the worm is perfect to twirl and keep your hands/fingers busy.  There is also the option to fill the head of the worm with calming essential oils to help relieve stress.

While worry worms are not created be toys, these do make great pals for children.  These little creatures help indidivuals to let go of fears and listen to your worries.  Warning: keychain and safety eyes are a choking hazard for children under the age of three.

There are numerous different styles of crochet patterns and poems that have been created.  I have free handed the below pattern that I’m sharing here with you.

Worry Worm Crochet Materials

This post may contain affiliate links. This means that if you purchase products through these links, I may receive commission at no extra cost to you.

Crochet Hook size G, scissors, poly-fil or similar stuffing, safety eyes, keychain attachment (optional) and tapestry needle (to assemble and weave in ends).

I get my safety eyes from Amazon,

Medium weight, 100% Cotton, Size 4 Yarn  

I love Yarnspiration’s Lily Sugar’n Cream Ombre Yarns for this creation.  I listed some of my favorites below, the pattern pictures I have captured here use faded denim ombre.

Faded Denim Ombre

Butter Cream Ombre

Capri Ombre

Coral Seas Ombre

CROCHET STITCHES/ABBREVIATIONS

Chain (CH): Yarn over and pull a loop back through.

Slip Stitch (SS): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Single Crochet (SC): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through the stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Increase Single Crochet (INC): Single crochet twice in the same stitch. This would increase the stitch count by 1 each time completed.

Decrease (DEC): Insert hook in front loop only FLO of stitch 1, insert hook in FLO of stitch 2, complete Single Crochet.  This would decrease the stitch count by 1 each time completed.

Double Crochet (DC): Yarn over, insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through the stitch, yarn over, pull through two loops on hook, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

WORRY WORM PATTERN START

Using magic circle technique, 7 SC in magic circle. (7 SC)

progression of crochet project after round 1.
Image of 7 Single Crochets in the Magic Circle (prior to pulling tail tight to close circle).

Second Round: 7 INC (14 SC)

Progress after round 2 of 7 increases.
Image after round 2.

Third – Sixth Round: 14 SC (14 SC)

Progression of worry worm
Image after round 6.

Seventh Round: 7 DEC (7SC)

We will now create a chain to start the body of the worm and complete a row of double crochet back to the head. 

Foundation: CH 27, turn. 

Image after body's foundation chain.
Image after creating foundation chain to create body.

Starting in 3nd chain from hook, DC 4 times in each stitch back to the head of the worm.  (100 DC)   The twisting effect of the body should happen naturally on it’s own as you continue crocheting here.

Progress of crochet body spiral
Progression of body spiral after 8 Double Crochets across first two stitches.

After completing 100 Double Crochets back to the head, CH 2 and SS to the head (Images below). 

Cut a long tail to close head, create key chain loop and sew on eyes. Be sure to fill the head with poly-fill or similar stuffing prior to sewing completely closed.

Picture of chain two after body completion
Image of chain two after body completion.
Close up of where to slip stitch from body to head.
Photo of where to slip stitch from the body to the head of the worry worm.
How to sew crochet worry worm head closed
Image of how to use tapestry needle to weave around the head to close.

WORRY WORM ASSEMBLY

Once head is closed, with the tapestry needle, feed yarn to top of head to create a loop that can be attached to a key chain. Next, use the remaining yarn to sew safety eyes to the head. I typically space the eyes between rounds 3-4 and about 4 stitches apart. However, I like to do a lot of different options of spacing because the different eye placement gives the worms their own personality.

Progression picture to show worry work work in progress.

WORRY WORM CROCHET PATTERN END

Check out more of my free patterns on my site including the food creations for Teddy’s Kitchen.

Thanks for following along and please share your creations with me on Facebook or Instagram.

Pattern source must be disclosed to buyer if pattern is used to create product inventory to be sold. Ex: “Pattern by Schutt Farms”

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Peas in a Pod Crochet Pattern

Peas in a Pod Pattern by Madison – Schutt Farms

Photo of finished crochet product.

Peas in a Pod

I make these peas in a pod for my son, Teddy to use in his play kitchen. It’s a quick make and easy pattern to follow. He loves to pull the peas out of the pods to put in different dishes while he’s cooking.  Warning: for children under the age of three, the peas can be a choking hazard. Children under the age of three should not be left unsupervised with this toy. Consider sewing the peas into the pod so they cannot be removed to avoid this hazard.

There are also many other uses for this crochet creation. I’ve embroidered eyes and a smile to the peas – a very cute gift for your significant other.  The two peas in a pod is very popular at vendor markets and a quick first to sell out.  Individuals love to purchase these as gifts.

Also, the pod pattern can be adjusted to accommodate more peas.  Additional personality could be added to these peas (hair bows or bow ties) to represent a group of individuals.  For example, a pea to represent all the children in your family – or all of your grandkids.  It would make a very sweet, personalized gift for anyone.

MATERIALS

This post may contain affiliate links. This means that if you purchase products through these links, I may receive commission at no extra cost to you.

Crochet Hook size D/3-3.125 MM, scissors, poly-fil or similar stuffing, and tapestry needle (to assemble and weave in ends), and yarn – details below.

Start building out your crochet tools with this set of hooks from Amazon if you are new to crochet. You get the most product for your money.

Yarn Details: Medium, 100% Cotton, Size 4 Yarn  

Here are the brand and colors I used for the peas in a pod crochet pattern, but similar colors in other size 4 cotton yarn will yield similar results. Brand: I love this cotton (sold at Hobby Lobby).  This brand of cotton yarn is so soft; it also comes in so many color options. I use this brand of yarn for all of my play food creations. A single skein can create various different play foods. For example, I’ve used Sage to also make grapes, asparagus, and broccoli. Forest Green is also a great color for watermelon rind and strawberry tops.

Peas – 40 Sage

Pod – 52 Forest Green

STITCHES/ABBREVIATIONS

Chain (CH): Yarn over and pull a loop back through.

Slip Stitch (SS): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Single Crochet (SC): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through the stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Increase Single Crochet (INC): Single crochet twice in the same stitch. This would increase the stitch count by 1 each time completed.

Note: pattern will note if there is an increase larger than 2 in parenthesis.

INC(3): Complete 3 Single Crochets in the same stitch.

Inc(5): Complete 5 Single Crochets in the same stitch.

Decrease (DEC): Insert hook in front loop only FLO of stitch 1, insert hook in FLO of stitch 2, complete Single Crochet.  This would decrease the stitch count by 1 each time completed.

PEAS IN A POD PATTERN START

Pea Pattern

In Color 40 Sage, 8 SC in magic circle. (8 SC)

Second Round: 8 INC (16 SC)

Progression photo of crochet pattern after round 2

Third – Sixth Round: 16 SC (16SC)

Seventh Round: 8 DEC (8SC) – Prior to closing pea completely, be sure to fill with poly-fil or similar stuffing.

progression of crochet pattern

Cut and fasten off, set aside until assembly.

Repeat above steps as many times as you would like. Make at least two peas to fit into the pod pattern below.  

Pod Pattern

In Color 52 Forest Green, CH 9.

The pod crochet pattern is worked in the round after this initial chain. If further direction is needed, the PDF pattern has an additional diagram of the first round around the foundation chain.

First round: 7 SC, INC(5), 6 SC, INC(3) (21 SC)

Progression photo of pod crochet pattern
Photo after round 1.

Second: * INC, 8 SC, INC, SC, repeat from * (26 SC)

Third: * INC, 10 SC, INC, SC, repeat from * (30 SC)

Fourth: * INC, 12 SC, INC, SC, repeat from * (34 SC)

Fifth: * INC, 14 SC, INC, SC, repeat from * (38 SC)

Sixth: 38 SC (38 SC)

Seventh: * DEC, 14 SC, DEC, SC, repeat from * (34 SC)

Eighth: * DEC, 12 SC, DEC, SC, repeat from * (30 SC)

Side View of Crochet Pod progression
Side view of pod progression
Final product
Top view of finished Peas in a Pod

REMINDER: If making for small children to use in their play kitchen, you may want to attach/sew the peas into the pod to avoid any choking hazards. The peas are small and can be a choking hazard to children under the age of three. I suggest simply attaching the peas into their place within the pod with your tapestry needle and the same yarn used to crochet the pod.

PEAS IN A POD CROCHET PATTERN END

Check out more of my free kitchen patterns for Teddy’s Kitchen to create a full pantry.

Thanks for following my peas in a pod crochet pattern, and please share your creations with me on Facebook or Instagram.

If pattern is used to create product inventory to be sold, pattern source “Pattern by Schutt Farms” must be disclosed to buyer.

Additional Crochet Patterns by Schutt Farms

Pierogi Crochet PDF Pattern
Pancake Crochet Pattern Title Page
Crochet Food
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Schutt Farms: Christmas Holiday Home Tour

Welcome to the 2022 Schutt Farms Holiday Home Tour. I’m showing the spaces of our home decorated for Christmas. This is my favorite time of year because I get to showcase all of my vintage Christmas decorations that I collect all year long. Here is how I styled different areas of our home for 2023.

Check out other Home Tour posts on the blog .

Foyer with its Christmas touches.

Christmas Foyer

First up, the Christmas Tree. This is a new tree purchased from Ikea. I wanted something simple that was not too full, and this tree did not disappoint. It is styled with vintage mini candle clips that I picked up from an estate sale earlier in the year and used birthday cake candles throughout. To keep this tree simple, I used a red/white stripe thin ribbon as a tree topper. I placed the tree inside a croc and used white fabric scraps to keep it tightly in place.

Second, antique toy trumpets decorations. Using the same ribbon from my tree topper, I hung some trumpets in the foyer. I picked up a bunch of trumpets throughout the year for $1-2. I debated hanging them here or putting them on one of my trees.

Lastly, antique ornaments boxes to fill the space. I used antique ornament boxes to place under the tree. I love finding an antique shiny brite ornament box.

Christmas Nativity

Dining Room: Nativity Scenes & Elf Tree

Nativity Scenes

There are three nativity scenes on our dining room antique curio cabinet.

First, I was lucky enough to be gifted the main nativity scene from my mom this year. The Holy Family with Three Kings & camels were part of this set. I don’t have a manger for it, but instead I just placed the Holy Family on a tray and some pine trees behind the scene. These trees were found at Walmart this year. I had a lot of good luck finding bottle brush trees at Walmart this past year as well; various sizes ranging from $2-5 to use around the house.

Second, the mini plastic antique manager (bottom left corner of the picture) was found this year at an estate sale. I look forward to finding more of those this year. I set this in front of two angel ornaments that were gifted to me by my Grandma Jennie; they belonged to her mom. It was an honor to receive these heirloom family ornaments.

Lastly, I happened to stumble across these mini nativity ornaments at Hobby Lobby. I knew they would be perfect to place within my antique printer tray here.

Elf Tree

Other items I was lucky enough to be gifted: my mom’s entire lot of antique elves. With all the new spaces in the new house, I had a lot of ground to cover with decorations. My mom didn’t have room for her elves and let me borrow them for this Christmas. I dressed up the buffet in the dining room with all these elf friends for our Christmas Elf, Buttercup Bob.

Next, I added some bottle brush trees to help balance the space. Some old Putz bottle brush trees are pictured here, but I also supplemented with some new from Walmart, as mentioned earlier.

Santas in the Kitchen

Santa took over our kitchen shelves. I was able to find two antique Santa mugs this holiday season. They are a stand-out next to my newly purchased mugs from years past. I picked up a bunch of Santa mugs from the Dollar Tree a few years ago (hanging from my rail); these are the kid’s favorite for hot chocolate. I also added candy canes in ball jars, antique cookie cutters, and other ceramic Santa’s throughout he shelf.

Kitchen Santa Shelf

Holiday Home Tour: Living Room

Christmas Spirit in the Living Room

A few themes can summarize our living room Christmas decor.

First, Christmas Trees in Crocs. I picked up quite a few crocs from estate sales this past year. I was able to put them all to good use during the Christmas season. The trees are from 5 below and the Dollar Tree.

Second, Snowmen. I decided to highlight all my snowmen in this corner of the house this year. Using a stool to add height and places my snowmen around the trees.

Third, Mr. Christmas Decor. If you look closely, there are two Mr. Christmas decorations in this scene: a marching band and a ski lift. These are a fan favorite of my boys. They loved watching and playing the ski lift and listening to Santa’s marching band. I found these in estate sales this past year.

Lastly, I cannot not mention the dollar tree village makeover that I spread across the antique library cabinet. You can read more about how I did this here.

Last But Not Least, Our Christmas Tree

View of Christmas Tree in the Sunroom

This is by far my favorite tree EVER. It is our first real tree as a family, and it is the first tree in the new house. It is the most beautiful view.

Other Christmas decor in the sunroom includes simple wreaths on all the windows. I got these wreaths at Michaels and dressed them up with a simple red ribbon.

Also, I just HAD to put the kids rocking horse by the tree. I picked this up at an estate sale this past year for the kid’s room, and it just made sense to put it by the Christmas tree for the holiday season.

Other items not shown, my putz village and ceramic village in the other corner of the room. I plan to spend more time on those spaces next year – need to tap into my creativity to come up with the perfect displays.

I am excited to watch our Christmas decor evolve over the next few years. Thanks for following along!

Christmas Morning
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How to Knit a Simple Bonnet with a Brim

The simple knit bonnet with brim, knitting pattern by Schutt Farms.

Photo of finished knit bonnet with brim.

You can also pin this post for later reference.

This is the easiest bonnet because it’s first knit as a single rectangle and then sewn/stitched up the back to create a square bonnet. I also have this similar pattern without the brim available on my site here.

I love this old-fashioned bonnet look on baby/toddlers. This is also very functional as it covers the ears. Moms LOVE hats that keep baby’s ears covered in the cold months.

Materials

For this pattern I used a size 4 yarn, double strand (which means instead of using 1 strand of yarn, I used 2 at once).

This can be done multiple ways: (1) Buy two skeins of yarn to use at once. (2) Create two balls from your skein to use at once. (3) This is what I typically do – Use both ends of the skein at the same time.

You will also need size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles to create the bonnet.

A tapestry needle to weave in ends and assemble the bonnet.

A crochet hook to create the ties. (Optional – you could braid ties if you wanted.)

Pattern Abbreviations:

K = Knit Stitch

P = Pearl Stitch

Newborn Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 5.25″ from front to back and 5.5″ from top to bottom.

Using size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles cast on 34 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (34 stitches).

Row 2-4: repeat Row 1 (34 stitches in each row).

Row 4-17: *K1, repeat from * to end of row (34 stitches in each row).

Row 18: *K1, cast off repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

0-3 Months Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 5.5″ from front to back and 6″ from top to bottom.

Using size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles cast on 36 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (36 stitches).

Row 2-4: repeat Row 1 (36 stitches in each row).

Row 4-19: *K1, repeat from * to end of row (36 stitches in each row).

Row 20: *K1, cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

3-6 Months Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 5.75″ from front to back and 6.25″ from top to bottom.

Using size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles cast on 38 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (38 stitches).

Row 2-5: repeat Row 1 (38 stitches in each row).

Row 6-20: *K1, repeat from * to end of row (38 stitches in each row).

Row 21: *K1, cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

6-9 Months Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 6.25″ from front to back and 6.75″ from top to bottom.

Using size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles cast on 42 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (42 stitches).

Row 2-5: repeat Row 1 (42 stitches in each row).

Row 6-22: *K1, repeat from * to end of row (42 stitches in each row).

Row 23: *K1, cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

9-12 Months Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 6.75″ from front to back and 7″ from top to bottom.

Using size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles cast on 46 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (46 stitches).

Row 2-5: repeat Row 1 (46 stitches in each row).

Row 6-23: *K1, repeat from * to end of row (46 stitches in each row).

Row 24: *K1, cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

1-2 Years Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 7″ from front to back and 7.25″ from top to bottom.

Using size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles cast on 48 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (48 stitches).

Row 2-6: repeat Row 1 (48 stitches in each row).

Row 7-24: *K1, repeat from * to end of row (48 stitches in each row).

Row 25: *K1, cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

2-5 Years Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 7.5″ from front to back and 7.75″ from top to bottom.

Using size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles cast on 52 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (52 stitches).

Row 2-6: repeat Row 1 (52 stitches in each row).

Row 7-26: *K1, repeat from * to end of row (52 stitches in each row).

Row 27: *K1, cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

5-10 Years Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 8″ from front to back and 8.25″ from top to bottom.

Using size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles cast on 56 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (56 stitches).

Row 2-7: repeat Row 1 (56 stitches in each row).

Row 8-28: *K1, repeat from * to end of row (56 stitches in each row).

Row 29: *K1, cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

Teen / Adult Small Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 8.5″ from front to back and 8.75″ from top to bottom.

Using size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles cast on 58 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (58 stitches).

Row 2-7: repeat Row 1 (58 stitches in each row).

Row 8-29: *K1, repeat from * to end of row (58 stitches in each row).

Row 30: *K1, cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

Front view of the finished square knit bonnet modeled in size 2-5 years.
Side view of bonnet.

Assembly of Knit Bonnet with Brim

Lay bonnet flat to create a square. Using a tapestry needle, weave the tail to sew the back of the bonnet closed. Once closed, tie off and weave in ends.

Lastly, the two tie pieces need to be created to tie the bottom of the bonnet.

There are many ways these tails can be created. I use a crochet hook to crochet ties, but you could also cut long strands of yarn to braid each of the ties if crochet is not your thing.

First tie: Attach the double strand of yarn at the bottom corner of the opening. Chain the amount below based on pattern size (or for as long as you want the ties) before cutting the yarn to tie off. Here is a rough estimate for each size that I use – but if you are wanting longer ties – add more chains and for smaller ties – reduce the number of chains.

Newborn to 3-6 months: Chain 38 for the ties.

6-9 to 9-12 months: Chain 48 for the ties.

1-2 to 2-5 years: Chain 52 for the ties.

5-10 years to Adult Small: Chain 60 for the ties.

Second tie: Repeat above steps to create the last tie. Once complete – weave in additional ends where you attach the tie to the bonnet and it is complete.

Front view of the finished square knit bonnet modeled in size 2-5 years.
Front view of the square knit bonnet completed.

Please share your creations back with me on Facebook, Instagram or leave a comment below!

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How to Knit a Square Bonnet

The easiest hand knit bonnet pattern available for all sizes from newborn to adult.

Simple Knit Square Bonnet, photo of finished product.
Photo of finished bonnet.

What is great about this pattern/reference is that you can tailor to your desired stitch. That means if you wanted to add a brim or even create in a crochet stitch, the foundation of the size and how to assemble won’t change. I always have this chart handy when creating bonnets to ensure I have an appropriate size/fit.

If you’re interested in purchasing my 1-page downloaded PDF printable, you can find it in my shop here.

Preview of 1-page PDF chart you can purchase in my shop (columns blacked out here, not blocked out in purchase download)

You can also pin this post for later reference.

This is the easiest bonnet because it’s first knit as a single rectangle and then sewn/stitched up the back to create a square bonnet.

I love this old-fashioned bonnet look on baby/toddlers. This is also very functional as it covers the ears. Moms LOVE hats that keep baby’s ears covered in the cold months.

Materials

For this pattern I used a size 4 yarn, double strand (which means instead of using 1 strand of yarn, I used 2 at once).

This can be done multiple ways: (1) Buy two skeins of yarn to use at once. (2) Create two balls from your skein to use at once. (3) This is what I typically do – Use both ends of the skein at the same time.

You will also need 6.5mm knitting needles to create the bonnet

A tapestry needle to weave in ends and assemble the bonnet.

A crochet hook to create the ties. (Optional – you could braid ties if you wanted.)

Pattern Abbreviations:

K = Knit Stitch

P = Pearl Stitch

Newborn Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 5.25″ from front to back and 5.5″ from top to bottom.

Using 6.5mm knitting needles cast on 34 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (34 stitches).

Row 2-17: repeat Row 1 (34 stitches in each row).

Row 18: *K1, cast off, P1 cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

0-3 Months Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 5.5″ from front to back and 6″ from top to bottom.

Using 6.5mm knitting needles cast on 36 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (36 stitches).

Row 2-19: repeat Row 1 (36 stitches in each row).

Row 20: *K1, cast off, P1 cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

3-6 Months Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 5.75″ from front to back and 6.25″ from top to bottom.

Using 6.5mm knitting needles cast on 38 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (38 stitches).

Row 2-20: repeat Row 1 (38 stitches in each row).

Row 21: *K1, cast off, P1 cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

6-9 Months Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 6.25″ from front to back and 6.75″ from top to bottom.

Using 6.5mm knitting needles cast on 42 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (42 stitches).

Row 2-22: repeat Row 1 (42 stitches in each row).

Row 23: *K1, cast off, P1 cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

9-12 Months Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 6.75″ from front to back and 7″ from top to bottom.

Using 6.5mm knitting needles cast on 46 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (46 stitches).

Row 2-23: repeat Row 1 (46 stitches in each row).

Row 24: *K1, cast off, P1 cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

1-2 Years Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 7″ from front to back and 7.25″ from top to bottom.

Using 6.5mm knitting needles cast on 48 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (48 stitches).

Row 2-24: repeat Row 1 (48 stitches in each row).

Row 25: *K1, cast off, P1 cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

2-5 Years Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 7.5″ from front to back and 7.75″ from top to bottom.

Using 6.5mm knitting needles cast on 52 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (52 stitches).

Row 2-26: repeat Row 1 (52 stitches in each row).

Row 27: *K1, cast off, P1 cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

5-10 Years Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 8″ from front to back and 8.25″ from top to bottom.

Using 6.5mm knitting needles cast on 56 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (56 stitches).

Row 2-28: repeat Row 1 (56 stitches in each row).

Row 29: *K1, cast off, P1 cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

Teen / Adult Small Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 8.5″ from front to back and 8.75″ from top to bottom.

Using 6.5mm knitting needles cast on 58 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (58 stitches).

Row 2-29: repeat Row 1 (58 stitches in each row).

Row 30: *K1, cast off, P1 cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

Assembly of Square Knit Bonnet

Lay bonnet flat to create a square. Using a tapestry needle, weave the tail to sew the back of the bonnet closed. Once closed, tie off and weave in ends.

Lastly, the two tie pieces need to be created to tie the bottom of the bonnet.

There are many ways these tails can be created. I use a crochet hook to crochet ties, but you could also cut long strands of yarn to braid each of the ties if crochet is not your thing.

First tie: Attach the double strand of yarn at the bottom corner of the opening. Chain the amount below based on pattern size (or for as long as you want the ties) before cutting the yarn to tie off. Here is a rough estimate for each size that I use – but if you are wanting longer ties – add more chains and for smaller ties – reduce the number of chains.

Newborn to 3-6 months:

Chain 38 for the ties. [If wanting thicker ties as shown in my pictures, turn and single crochet in each chain back up to the corner of the bonnet, tie off and weave in ends into the hat].

6-9 to 9-12 months:

Chain 48 for the ties. [If wanting thicker ties as shown in my pictures, turn and single crochet in each chain back up to the corner of the bonnet, tie off and weave in ends into the hat].

1-2 to 2-5 years:

Chain 52 for the ties. [If wanting thicker ties as shown in my pictures, turn and single crochet in each chain back up to the corner of the bonnet, tie off and weave in ends into the hat].

5-10 years to Adult Small:

Chain 60 for the ties. [If wanting thicker ties as shown in my pictures, turn and single crochet in each chain back up to the corner of the bonnet, tie off and weave in ends into the hat].

Second tie: Repeat above steps to create the last tie. Once complete – weave in any additional ends where you attach the tie to the bonnet and it is complete.

Side view of the square knit bonnet completed.

Please share your creations back with me on Facebook, Instagram or leave a comment below!

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How to Crochet a Pizza Slice

Pizza Slice Crochet Pattern by: Madison – Schutt Farms

Materials

This post may contain affiliate links. This means that if you purchase products through these links, I may receive commission at no extra cost to you.

Crochet Hook size G, 4.00 mm., scissors and tapestry needle (to assemble and weave in ends).

If you’re new to crochet, you can get started building your tools with this set of hooks from Amazon. You get the most product for your money.

If you already have a lot of hooks, just not in size G yet, you can order just this hook. I would suggest in investing in an ergonomic hook with a larger handle. Almost all my food creations use this size hook, so it’s a worth it upgrade.

Medium, Size 4 Yarn

Here are the brand and colors I used, but similar colors in other size 4 yarn will yield similar results.

Brand: I love this cotton (sold at Hobby Lobby). 

Colohttps://www.hobbylobby.com/Yarn-Needle-Art/Yarn/Black-I-Love-This-Cotton-Yarn/p/36167rs: 48 Taupe, 12 Buttercup, 60 Red

Stitches/Abbreviations

Chain (CH): Yarn over and pull a loop back through.

Slip Stitch (SS): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Single Crochet (SC): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through the stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Half Double Crochet (HDC): Yarn over, insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through the stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Double Crochet (DC): Yarn over, insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through the stitch, yarn over and pull through two loops, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Increase (INC): Single crochet twice in the same stitch. This would increase the stitch count by 1 each time completed.

Increase Double Crochet (INCDC): Double crochet twice in the same stitch. This would increase the stitch count by 1 each time completed.

Increase (INC3): Single crochet three times in the same stitch. This would increase the stitch count by 2 each time completed.  

Pizza Slice Crochet Pattern Start

Crust Pattern

In color 48 Taupe, create slip knot, chain 2.

First row: In second chain from hook, SC, CH 1, turn. (1 SC)

Work in progress image to show how pizza slice crochet project should look after specific step.
Image after Row 1.

Second row: In second chain from hook, SC, CH 1, turn. (1 SC)

This may look messy and not like a triangle point at this stage, but you have to trust the process and keep on moving with the pattern. Once you are complete with row three, you can tighten the slip knot and adjust to make it look more like a point.

Third row: INC3. [Complete 3 single crochets in the stitch to increase] CH 1, turn. (3 SC)

Work in progress image to show how pizza slice crochet project should look after specific step.
Image after Row 3.

Fourth row: 3 SC, CH 1, turn. (3 SC)

Fifth row: INC, SC, INC, CH 1, turn. (5 SC)

Work in progress image to show how pizza slice crochet project should look after specific step.
Image after row 5.

Sixth row: 5 SC, CH 1, turn. (5 SC)

Work in progress image to show how pizza slice crochet project should look after specific step.
Image after row 6.

Seventh row: INC, 3 SC, INC, CH 1, turn. (7 SC)

Eighth row: 7 SC, CH 1, turn. (7 SC)

Ninth row: INC, 5 SC, INC, CH 1, turn. (9 SC)

Tenth Row: 9 SC, CH 1, turn. (9 SC)

Eleventh Row: INC, 7 SC, INC, CH 1, turn. (11 SC)

Twelfth Row: 11 SC, CH 1, turn. (11 SC)

Thirteenth Row: INC, 9 SC, INC, CH 1, turn. (13 SC)

Fourteenth Row: 13 SC, CH 1, turn. (13 SC)

Fifteenth Row: INC, 11 SC, INC, CH 1, turn. (15 SC)

Sixteenth Row: 15 SC, CH 1, turn. (15 SC)

Seventeenth Row: INC, 2 SC, 3 HDC, 3 DC, 3 HDC, 2 SC, INC, cut tail and fasten off. (17 Stitches Total across)

Work in progress image to show how pizza slice crochet project should look after specific step.
Image of finished pizza crust, before assembly.

Cheese/Sauce Pattern

For rows 1 – 13, in the yellow color, follow steps above. Prior to complete the last Single Crochet in row 13, change to red.

Work in progress image to show how pizza slice crochet project should look after specific step.
Image of last single crochet in row 13, pull through with red to change colors
Work in progress image to show how pizza slice crochet project should look after specific step.
Image after row 13 .

Fourteenth Row: In second chain from hook, SS, SC, HDC, INCDC, HDC, 2 SC, HDC, INCDC, HDC, SC, SS (14 stitches total). Cut tail and fasten off.

Work in progress image to show how the project should look after specific step.
Image of pizza top (cheese & sauce) prior to assembly.

Assembly

Stack cheese/sauce piece on top of crust, using the yellow colored that was used for cheese and a tapestry needle – sew/weave around the edges to attach the pieces together. Use the tapestry needle to weave in all loose ends to complete the pizza slice.

Image to show how to attach project pieces during this specific step.
Image example of how to attach pieces together.
Work in progress image to show how project should look after specific step.
Image after cheese/sauce is sewn to crust.

Optional Pizza Toppings to Crochet:

  • Pepperoni
  • Pineapple
  • Mushroom
  • Green Pepper

Note: if you are interested in creating toppings, decide if you want them to be mobile/static to the piece.

If it is preferred that the pizza slice toppings cannot be moved, sew the pizza toppings to cheese before attaching the cheese to the crust. This will allow you to more easily hide the yarn tails used to attach the toppings.

Pizza Slice Crochet Pattern End

Repeat this crochet pattern 6 times total, if you want to create an entire pizza pie.

Check out more of my free kitchen patterns for Teddy’s Kitchen to create a full pantry.

Thanks for following along and please share your creations with me on Facebook or Instagram. Comment your favorite pizza toppings below for future inspirations!

If pattern is used to create product inventory to be sold, pattern source “Pattern by Schutt Farms” must be disclosed to buyer.

Additional Patterns by Schutt Farms

Crochet Food
Photo of finished crochet project
Pierogi Crochet PDF Pattern
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DIY: Christmas Village Upcycle

Before and After: Dollar Tree Christmas Village Makeover

It’s our first Christmas in our new home! I’m so excited to decorate our new spaces for the first time this holiday season. We have brought over all of our Christmas decor from our old home but wanting to decorate a larger space requires more decoration (weird, right?). I’ve had to get a little creative in decorating some of our spaces because unfortunately I do not have an unlimited Christmas decor budget. I’m sharing this DIY Dollar Tree Christmas Village in its simplest form, but then also outlining some additional, quick enhancements to take this DIY to the next level.

This post may contain affiliate links. This means that if you purchase products through these links, I may receive commission at no extra cost to you

Finished product of the village displayed in our home.

I was inspired by the multitude of white ceramic village houses that you can find at almost any Christmas decor store (target, anthropology, pottery barn, etc.); however, I wasn’t wanting to spend top dollar or really any dollars at this point. I frequent the dollar tree to check out seasonal decor, so I knew exactly what I was going to try to finish this space in our living room.

Materials

There are really only two materials to create the bare minimum (village houses and white spray paint), but I’m also highlighting some additional materials that I purchased and may consider adding to my village in the near future. I decided to place my village among garland with my Mr. Christmas Marching Band, so the minimum works in this space.

First, I picked up some village houses from the dollar tree. They had a total of 6 different village options this year. I opted out of the gingerbread house, just because I didn’t think it would fit nicely with the other outlines of the houses once painted. I did, however, get multiples of the same houses to help build my village for 8 houses total. This village is the most affordable option, and the houses already come with a battery-operated light.

Second, this is a very small project, so it will not require a lot of spray paint. You may already have some left over from a different project. If you don’t, just pick up white spray paint when you’re out from any grocery/hardware store. Here is the brand I used.

Houses during spray painting.

This project in its simplest form, is applying spray paint to the village houses twice. That’s it. Once the paint is dry, this village can be arranged anywhere. I do have some other ideas for these houses in the future that I’ll share here too.

Other materials I’ve picked up from the dollar tree and may consider adding in the future are detailed below.

Finished product, styled in our home

Additional Materials

  1. Canvas: If wanting to create an antique putz house feel, hot glue the houses on a small canvas to create a platform bottom. You can purchase a three-pack of 4×6 sized canvas from the dollar tree. I do have these on hand if I decide to style these houses differently in the future.
  2. Bottle brush trees: If you decide to add a platform, you can purcahse these as a three-pack from the dollar tree to add in front of the houses. I also think adding a bottle brush wreath would be super cute (so I may add to some of my houses when I do go this route).
  3. Glitter: Some white glitter paint would really make these houses pop. I decided not to go glitter at this point in time, just to avoid mess. I usually avoid glitter when I can, but I do think it would be a great upgrade to these houses to create that snow feel.
  4. Wreath: Has anyone else noticed the Anthropology wreath DIY trend this year? I think these houses would be perfect to make your own Anthro dupe.

Thanks for reading my experience, and I hope you feel inspired to create your own upcycled dollar tree village. Please share your own village creations with me!