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How to Crochet a Worry Worm

Worry Worm Crochet Pattern by Madison – Schutt Farms

What is a worry worm?

Worry worms are a popular make amongst the crochet community.  Individuals create these items to sell as keychains, sell as mental-health wellness items, leave in random places in their communities for others to find as a surprise gift, or donate them to schools or places where children in need may be able to find one.

A worry worm is created as a round head and a spiral body to crochet the perfect yarn fidget toy.  Worry Worms are accompanied by a poem to introduce and describe how the worry worm should be used.  The spiral body of the worm is perfect to twirl and keep your hands/fingers busy.  There is also the option to fill the head of the worm with calming essential oils to help relieve stress.

While worry worms are not created be toys, these do make great pals for children.  These little creatures help indidivuals to let go of fears and listen to your worries.  Warning: keychain and safety eyes are a choking hazard for children under the age of three.

There are numerous different styles of crochet patterns and poems that have been created.  I have free handed the below pattern that I’m sharing here with you.

Worry Worm Crochet Materials

This post may contain affiliate links. This means that if you purchase products through these links, I may receive commission at no extra cost to you.

Crochet Hook size G, scissors, poly-fil or similar stuffing, safety eyes, keychain attachment (optional) and tapestry needle (to assemble and weave in ends).

I get my safety eyes from Amazon,

Medium weight, 100% Cotton, Size 4 Yarn  

I love Yarnspiration’s Lily Sugar’n Cream Ombre Yarns for this creation.  I listed some of my favorites below, the pattern pictures I have captured here use faded denim ombre.

Faded Denim Ombre

Butter Cream Ombre

Capri Ombre

Coral Seas Ombre

CROCHET STITCHES/ABBREVIATIONS

Chain (CH): Yarn over and pull a loop back through.

Slip Stitch (SS): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Single Crochet (SC): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through the stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Increase Single Crochet (INC): Single crochet twice in the same stitch. This would increase the stitch count by 1 each time completed.

Decrease (DEC): Insert hook in front loop only FLO of stitch 1, insert hook in FLO of stitch 2, complete Single Crochet.  This would decrease the stitch count by 1 each time completed.

Double Crochet (DC): Yarn over, insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through the stitch, yarn over, pull through two loops on hook, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

WORRY WORM PATTERN START

Using magic circle technique, 7 SC in magic circle. (7 SC)

progression of crochet project after round 1.
Image of 7 Single Crochets in the Magic Circle (prior to pulling tail tight to close circle).

Second Round: 7 INC (14 SC)

Progress after round 2 of 7 increases.
Image after round 2.

Third – Sixth Round: 14 SC (14 SC)

Progression of worry worm
Image after round 6.

Seventh Round: 7 DEC (7SC)

We will now create a chain to start the body of the worm and complete a row of double crochet back to the head. 

Foundation: CH 27, turn. 

Image after body's foundation chain.
Image after creating foundation chain to create body.

Starting in 3nd chain from hook, DC 4 times in each stitch back to the head of the worm.  (100 DC)   The twisting effect of the body should happen naturally on it’s own as you continue crocheting here.

Progress of crochet body spiral
Progression of body spiral after 8 Double Crochets across first two stitches.

After completing 100 Double Crochets back to the head, CH 2 and SS to the head (Images below). 

Cut a long tail to close head, create key chain loop and sew on eyes. Be sure to fill the head with poly-fill or similar stuffing prior to sewing completely closed.

Picture of chain two after body completion
Image of chain two after body completion.
Close up of where to slip stitch from body to head.
Photo of where to slip stitch from the body to the head of the worry worm.
How to sew crochet worry worm head closed
Image of how to use tapestry needle to weave around the head to close.

WORRY WORM ASSEMBLY

Once head is closed, with the tapestry needle, feed yarn to top of head to create a loop that can be attached to a key chain. Next, use the remaining yarn to sew safety eyes to the head. I typically space the eyes between rounds 3-4 and about 4 stitches apart. However, I like to do a lot of different options of spacing because the different eye placement gives the worms their own personality.

Progression picture to show worry work work in progress.

WORRY WORM CROCHET PATTERN END

Check out more of my free patterns on my site including the food creations for Teddy’s Kitchen.

Thanks for following along and please share your creations with me on Facebook or Instagram.

Pattern source must be disclosed to buyer if pattern is used to create product inventory to be sold. Ex: “Pattern by Schutt Farms”

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How to Knit a Simple Bonnet with a Brim

The simple knit bonnet with brim, knitting pattern by Schutt Farms.

Photo of finished knit bonnet with brim.

You can also pin this post for later reference.

This is the easiest bonnet because it’s first knit as a single rectangle and then sewn/stitched up the back to create a square bonnet. I also have this similar pattern without the brim available on my site here.

I love this old-fashioned bonnet look on baby/toddlers. This is also very functional as it covers the ears. Moms LOVE hats that keep baby’s ears covered in the cold months.

Materials

For this pattern I used a size 4 yarn, double strand (which means instead of using 1 strand of yarn, I used 2 at once).

This can be done multiple ways: (1) Buy two skeins of yarn to use at once. (2) Create two balls from your skein to use at once. (3) This is what I typically do – Use both ends of the skein at the same time.

You will also need size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles to create the bonnet.

A tapestry needle to weave in ends and assemble the bonnet.

A crochet hook to create the ties. (Optional – you could braid ties if you wanted.)

Pattern Abbreviations:

K = Knit Stitch

P = Pearl Stitch

Newborn Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 5.25″ from front to back and 5.5″ from top to bottom.

Using size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles cast on 34 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (34 stitches).

Row 2-4: repeat Row 1 (34 stitches in each row).

Row 4-17: *K1, repeat from * to end of row (34 stitches in each row).

Row 18: *K1, cast off repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

0-3 Months Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 5.5″ from front to back and 6″ from top to bottom.

Using size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles cast on 36 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (36 stitches).

Row 2-4: repeat Row 1 (36 stitches in each row).

Row 4-19: *K1, repeat from * to end of row (36 stitches in each row).

Row 20: *K1, cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

3-6 Months Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 5.75″ from front to back and 6.25″ from top to bottom.

Using size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles cast on 38 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (38 stitches).

Row 2-5: repeat Row 1 (38 stitches in each row).

Row 6-20: *K1, repeat from * to end of row (38 stitches in each row).

Row 21: *K1, cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

6-9 Months Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 6.25″ from front to back and 6.75″ from top to bottom.

Using size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles cast on 42 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (42 stitches).

Row 2-5: repeat Row 1 (42 stitches in each row).

Row 6-22: *K1, repeat from * to end of row (42 stitches in each row).

Row 23: *K1, cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

9-12 Months Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 6.75″ from front to back and 7″ from top to bottom.

Using size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles cast on 46 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (46 stitches).

Row 2-5: repeat Row 1 (46 stitches in each row).

Row 6-23: *K1, repeat from * to end of row (46 stitches in each row).

Row 24: *K1, cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

1-2 Years Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 7″ from front to back and 7.25″ from top to bottom.

Using size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles cast on 48 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (48 stitches).

Row 2-6: repeat Row 1 (48 stitches in each row).

Row 7-24: *K1, repeat from * to end of row (48 stitches in each row).

Row 25: *K1, cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

2-5 Years Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 7.5″ from front to back and 7.75″ from top to bottom.

Using size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles cast on 52 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (52 stitches).

Row 2-6: repeat Row 1 (52 stitches in each row).

Row 7-26: *K1, repeat from * to end of row (52 stitches in each row).

Row 27: *K1, cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

5-10 Years Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 8″ from front to back and 8.25″ from top to bottom.

Using size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles cast on 56 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (56 stitches).

Row 2-7: repeat Row 1 (56 stitches in each row).

Row 8-28: *K1, repeat from * to end of row (56 stitches in each row).

Row 29: *K1, cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

Teen / Adult Small Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 8.5″ from front to back and 8.75″ from top to bottom.

Using size US 10, 6.0mm knitting needles cast on 58 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (58 stitches).

Row 2-7: repeat Row 1 (58 stitches in each row).

Row 8-29: *K1, repeat from * to end of row (58 stitches in each row).

Row 30: *K1, cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

Front view of the finished square knit bonnet modeled in size 2-5 years.
Side view of bonnet.

Assembly of Knit Bonnet with Brim

Lay bonnet flat to create a square. Using a tapestry needle, weave the tail to sew the back of the bonnet closed. Once closed, tie off and weave in ends.

Lastly, the two tie pieces need to be created to tie the bottom of the bonnet.

There are many ways these tails can be created. I use a crochet hook to crochet ties, but you could also cut long strands of yarn to braid each of the ties if crochet is not your thing.

First tie: Attach the double strand of yarn at the bottom corner of the opening. Chain the amount below based on pattern size (or for as long as you want the ties) before cutting the yarn to tie off. Here is a rough estimate for each size that I use – but if you are wanting longer ties – add more chains and for smaller ties – reduce the number of chains.

Newborn to 3-6 months: Chain 38 for the ties.

6-9 to 9-12 months: Chain 48 for the ties.

1-2 to 2-5 years: Chain 52 for the ties.

5-10 years to Adult Small: Chain 60 for the ties.

Second tie: Repeat above steps to create the last tie. Once complete – weave in additional ends where you attach the tie to the bonnet and it is complete.

Front view of the finished square knit bonnet modeled in size 2-5 years.
Front view of the square knit bonnet completed.

Please share your creations back with me on Facebook, Instagram or leave a comment below!

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How to Knit a Square Bonnet

The easiest hand knit bonnet pattern available for all sizes from newborn to adult.

Simple Knit Square Bonnet, photo of finished product.
Photo of finished bonnet.

What is great about this pattern/reference is that you can tailor to your desired stitch. That means if you wanted to add a brim or even create in a crochet stitch, the foundation of the size and how to assemble won’t change. I always have this chart handy when creating bonnets to ensure I have an appropriate size/fit.

If you’re interested in purchasing my 1-page downloaded PDF printable, you can find it in my shop here.

Preview of 1-page PDF chart you can purchase in my shop (columns blacked out here, not blocked out in purchase download)

You can also pin this post for later reference.

This is the easiest bonnet because it’s first knit as a single rectangle and then sewn/stitched up the back to create a square bonnet.

I love this old-fashioned bonnet look on baby/toddlers. This is also very functional as it covers the ears. Moms LOVE hats that keep baby’s ears covered in the cold months.

Materials

For this pattern I used a size 4 yarn, double strand (which means instead of using 1 strand of yarn, I used 2 at once).

This can be done multiple ways: (1) Buy two skeins of yarn to use at once. (2) Create two balls from your skein to use at once. (3) This is what I typically do – Use both ends of the skein at the same time.

You will also need 6.5mm knitting needles to create the bonnet

A tapestry needle to weave in ends and assemble the bonnet.

A crochet hook to create the ties. (Optional – you could braid ties if you wanted.)

Pattern Abbreviations:

K = Knit Stitch

P = Pearl Stitch

Newborn Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 5.25″ from front to back and 5.5″ from top to bottom.

Using 6.5mm knitting needles cast on 34 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (34 stitches).

Row 2-17: repeat Row 1 (34 stitches in each row).

Row 18: *K1, cast off, P1 cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

0-3 Months Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 5.5″ from front to back and 6″ from top to bottom.

Using 6.5mm knitting needles cast on 36 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (36 stitches).

Row 2-19: repeat Row 1 (36 stitches in each row).

Row 20: *K1, cast off, P1 cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

3-6 Months Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 5.75″ from front to back and 6.25″ from top to bottom.

Using 6.5mm knitting needles cast on 38 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (38 stitches).

Row 2-20: repeat Row 1 (38 stitches in each row).

Row 21: *K1, cast off, P1 cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

6-9 Months Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 6.25″ from front to back and 6.75″ from top to bottom.

Using 6.5mm knitting needles cast on 42 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (42 stitches).

Row 2-22: repeat Row 1 (42 stitches in each row).

Row 23: *K1, cast off, P1 cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

9-12 Months Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 6.75″ from front to back and 7″ from top to bottom.

Using 6.5mm knitting needles cast on 46 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (46 stitches).

Row 2-23: repeat Row 1 (46 stitches in each row).

Row 24: *K1, cast off, P1 cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

1-2 Years Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 7″ from front to back and 7.25″ from top to bottom.

Using 6.5mm knitting needles cast on 48 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (48 stitches).

Row 2-24: repeat Row 1 (48 stitches in each row).

Row 25: *K1, cast off, P1 cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

2-5 Years Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 7.5″ from front to back and 7.75″ from top to bottom.

Using 6.5mm knitting needles cast on 52 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (52 stitches).

Row 2-26: repeat Row 1 (52 stitches in each row).

Row 27: *K1, cast off, P1 cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

5-10 Years Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 8″ from front to back and 8.25″ from top to bottom.

Using 6.5mm knitting needles cast on 56 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (56 stitches).

Row 2-28: repeat Row 1 (56 stitches in each row).

Row 29: *K1, cast off, P1 cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

Teen / Adult Small Knit Bonnet:

Finished size should measure roughly 8.5″ from front to back and 8.75″ from top to bottom.

Using 6.5mm knitting needles cast on 58 stitches.

First Row 1: *K1, P1, repeat from * to end of row (58 stitches).

Row 2-29: repeat Row 1 (58 stitches in each row).

Row 30: *K1, cast off, P1 cast off, repeat from * to end of row. Leave a long tail to assemble the bonnet.

Jump to Assembly below for how to finish the bonnet.

Assembly of Square Knit Bonnet

Lay bonnet flat to create a square. Using a tapestry needle, weave the tail to sew the back of the bonnet closed. Once closed, tie off and weave in ends.

Lastly, the two tie pieces need to be created to tie the bottom of the bonnet.

There are many ways these tails can be created. I use a crochet hook to crochet ties, but you could also cut long strands of yarn to braid each of the ties if crochet is not your thing.

First tie: Attach the double strand of yarn at the bottom corner of the opening. Chain the amount below based on pattern size (or for as long as you want the ties) before cutting the yarn to tie off. Here is a rough estimate for each size that I use – but if you are wanting longer ties – add more chains and for smaller ties – reduce the number of chains.

Newborn to 3-6 months:

Chain 38 for the ties. [If wanting thicker ties as shown in my pictures, turn and single crochet in each chain back up to the corner of the bonnet, tie off and weave in ends into the hat].

6-9 to 9-12 months:

Chain 48 for the ties. [If wanting thicker ties as shown in my pictures, turn and single crochet in each chain back up to the corner of the bonnet, tie off and weave in ends into the hat].

1-2 to 2-5 years:

Chain 52 for the ties. [If wanting thicker ties as shown in my pictures, turn and single crochet in each chain back up to the corner of the bonnet, tie off and weave in ends into the hat].

5-10 years to Adult Small:

Chain 60 for the ties. [If wanting thicker ties as shown in my pictures, turn and single crochet in each chain back up to the corner of the bonnet, tie off and weave in ends into the hat].

Second tie: Repeat above steps to create the last tie. Once complete – weave in any additional ends where you attach the tie to the bonnet and it is complete.

Side view of the square knit bonnet completed.

Please share your creations back with me on Facebook, Instagram or leave a comment below!

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How to Crochet a Cream Filled Cookie

Cream Filled Cookie Crochet Pattern by: Madison – Schutt Farms

Picture of finished crochet product

Materials

This post may contain affiliate links. This means that if you purchase products through these links, I may receive commission at no extra cost to you.

Crochet Hook size G, 4.00 mm., scissors, and tapestry needle (to assemble and weave in ends).

If you’re new to crochet, you can get started building your tools with this set of hooks from Amazon. You get the most product for your money.

If you already have a lot of hooks, just not in size G yet, you can order just this hook. I would suggest in investing in an ergonomic hook with a larger handle. Almost all of my food creations use this size hook, so it’s a worth it upgrade.

Medium, Size 4 Yarn

Here are the brand and colors I used, but similar colors in other size 4 yarn will yield similar results.

Brand: I love this cotton (sold at Hobby Lobby). Colors #: 6 White, 20 Brown

STITCHES / ABBREVIATIONS

Chain (CH): Yarn over and pull a loop back through

Slip Stitch (SS): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Single Crochet (SC): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through the stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Double Crochet (DC): Yarn over, insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through the stitch, yarn over and pull through two loops, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Increase Single Crochet (INCSC) Single crochet twice in the same stitch. This would increase the stitch count by 1 each time completed.  

Increase Double Crochet (INCDC): Double crochet twice in the same stitch. This would increase the stitch count by 1 each time completed.  

CREAM FILLED COOKIE CROCHET PATTERN START

Filling / Cream:

In color 6 White, create slip knot, chain 3.

First Round:  In third chain from hook, complete 12 DC (In slip knot, the first chain) pull tail tight to form a circle with stitches (12 DC).

Image after 12 DC.
Image after 12 DC, prior to pulling tail tight.

Second Round: CH 2, * INCDC, repeat from * 11 times, DC in last stitch, join with SS.  Cut and fasten off.

Image of finished crochet cream.
Image of finished filling.

Cookie Pieces:

In color 6 White, create slip knot, chain 2.

Image after 6 SC.
Image after 6 SC and tail pulled tight.

First Round: In second chain from hook, 6 SC.

Second Round: * INC, repeat from * 5 more times (12 SC).

Third Round: * SC, INC, repeat from * 5 more times (18 SC).

Fourth Round: * 2 SC, INC, repeat from * 5 more times (24 SC).

Fifth Round: * 3 SC, INC, repeat from * 5 more times (30 SC).  Cut yarn and fasten off.

Repeat cookie instructions to create two pieces.

Image of finished cookie piece.
Image of finished cookie piece.

CREAM FILLED COOKIE ASSEMBLY

Stack cookie to prep for assembly.  With cream in the middle, and right sides facing out, using 20 Brown, weave through the edges of the cookie to keep all three pieces in place.

Image of how to sew cookie together
Image of cookie for how to assemble.

CREAM FILLED COOKIE CROCHET PATTERN END

free crochet pattern

Repeat this pattern as many times as you’d like to create an entire cookie jar filled with your favorite cookies.

Check out more of my free kitchen patterns for Teddy’s Kitchen to create a full pantry.

Thanks for following along and please share your creations with me on Facebook or Instagram.

If pattern is used to create product inventory to be sold, pattern source “Pattern by Schutt Farms” must be disclosed to buyer.

Additional Schutt Farms Crochet Patterns

 

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How to Crochet a Partial Lemon Slice for Play Kitchen

Partial Lemon Slice Crochet Pattern by: Madison – Schutt Farms

This partial lemon slice pattern was created to go with my lemon collection.  Teddy was so excited when he saw that he could now hang the lemon on the teacup. 

You can also see my Lemon Slice pattern here for additional variations of lemons to use at your tea party.

materials

MATERIALS

This post may contain affiliate links. This means that if you purchase products through these links, I may receive commission at no extra cost to you.

Crochet Hook size G, 4.00 mm., scissors, and tapestry needle (to assemble and weave in ends, if preferred).

If you’re new to crochet, you can get started building your tools with this set of hooks from Amazon. You get the most product for your money.

If you already have a lot of hooks, just not in size G yet, you can order just this hook. I would suggest in investing in an ergonomic hook with a larger handle. Almost all of my food creations use this size hook, so it is a worth it upgrade.

Medium, Size 4 Yarn

Here are the brand and colors I used, but similar colors in other size 4 yarn will yield similar results.

Brand: I love this cotton (sold at Hobby Lobby). Colors #: 326 Curry (Yellow), 12 Buttercup (Lighter Yellow), 6 White

stitches / abbreviations

Chain (CH): Yarn over and pull a loop back through

Single Crochet (SC): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through the stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Increase (INC): Single crochet twice in the same stitch. This would increase the stitch count by 1 each time completed.

Partial lemon slice crochet pattern start

In color 12 Buttercup (lighter shade of yellow), Create slip knot, chain 2.

First Round:  In second chain from hook, complete 6 SC. (In slip knot, the first chain) pull tail tight to form a circle with stitches (6 SC).

Image after 6 SC, prior to pulling tail tight to form circle.
Image after 6 SC, prior to pulling tail tight to form circle.

Second Row: * INC 6x, CH 1, turn.

Third Row: In second stitch from hook, * SC, INC, repeat from * 5x, CH 1, turn.

Fourth Row: In second stitch from hook, * 2 SC, INC, repeat from * 5x, CH 1, turn.

Fifth Row: In second stitch from hook, * 3 SC, INC, repeat from * 5x, in last stitch, change colors by pulling through with 6 white, CH 1, turn.

Sixth Row: In second stitch from hook, * 4 SC, INC, repeat from * 5x, in last stitch, change colors by pulling through with 326 curry (darker yellow), CH 1, turn.

Seventh Row: In second stitch from hook, * 5 SC, INC, repeat from * 5x.  Cut tail, and tie off.

To add wedge detail, using white, from wrong side, pull through a strand in round 6 (white round) and insert strand into Round 2 (middle) to create a white line.  Repeat this 5 – 6 times creating white lines connecting Round 2 and Round 6.

Repeat above steps to create another lemon slice, this time leaving a long tail in order to assemble the final product.

Assembly

With wrong sides facing in/right sides facing out, sew both pieces together.  Using a tapestry needle or your crochet hook, weave the yarn tail from one of the slices around the edges of each to connect.  Inserting the string through back loops of each stitch and continue weaving until all sides are sewn together.

partial lemon slice crochet pattern end

Repeat this pattern as many times as you’d like to create an entire batch of lemon slices.

Check out more of my free kitchen patterns for Teddy’s Kitchen to create a full pantry.

Thanks for following along and please share your creations with me on Facebook or Instagram.

If pattern is used to create product inventory to be sold, pattern source “Pattern by Schutt Farms” must be disclosed to buyer.

Posted on

How to Crochet a Lemon Slice

Lemon Slice Crochet Pattern by Madison – Schutt Farms

This is another beginner-friendly play food crochet pattern that we have stocked in Teddy’s pay kitchen. This specific creation was inspired by grandma’s tea.  The day I finished my first set of lemons, Teddy’s squeezed it over a teacup and said, “Grandma does this to her tea”.  My heart pretty much melted. 

These lemon slices also look cute as party decorations.  Lemonade themed birthday parties, bridal shower, baby shower are all super cute themes that have been popular over the last few years, and this quick pattern can be replicated many times to create tons and tons of lemons for play and/or décor.  

Materials

This post may contain affiliate links. This means that if you purchase products through these links, I may receive commission at no extra cost to you.

Crochet Hook size G, 4.00 mm., scissors, and tapestry needle (to assemble and weave in ends).

If you’re new to crochet, you can get started building your tools with this set of hooks from Amazon. You get the most product for your money.

If you already have a lot of hooks, just not in size G yet, you can order just this hook. I would suggest in investing in an ergonomic hook with a larger handle. Almost all of my food creations use this size hook, so it’s a worth it upgrade.

Medium, Size 4 Yarn

Here are the brand and colors I used, but similar colors in other size 4 yarn will yield similar results.

Brand: I love this cotton (sold at Hobby Lobby). Colors #: 326 Curry (Yellow), 12 Buttercup (Lighter Yellow), 6 White

stitches/abbreviations:

Single Crochet (SC): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through the stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Increase (INC): Single crochet twice in the same stitch. This would increase the stitch count by 1 each time completed.

lemon slice crochet pattern start

In color 12 Buttercup (lighter shade of yellow), Create slip knot, chain 2.

First Round:  In second chain from hook, complete 6 SC. (In slip knot, the first chain) pull tail tight to form a circle with stitches (6 SC).

Image after first round prior to closing circle.
Image after 6 SC, prior to pulling tail tight to close circle.

Second Round: * INC, repeat from * 5 more times (12 SC).

Third Round: * SC, INC, repeat from * 5 more times (18 SC).

Fourth Round: * 2 SC, INC, repeat from * 5 more times (24 SC).

Fifth Round: * 3 SC, INC, repeat from * 5 more times.  When competing your last SC in this round, pull through with White to change colors for Round 6. (30 SC).

Sixth Round: In 6 White, * 4 SC, INC, repeat from * 5 more times.  When competing your last SC in this round, pull through with 326 Curry. This is the darker shade of yellow to complete Round 7.  (36 SC).

Seventh Round: * 5 SC, INC, repeat from * 5 more times (42 SC).  Cut and tie off ends.

Image after round seven, full circle with all colors.
Picture of finished lemon slice.

To add wedge detail, using white, from wrong side, pull through a strand in round 6 (white round) and insert strand into Round 2 (middle).  Repeat this 5 – 6 times creating white lines connecting Round 2 and Round 6.

Repeat above steps to create another lemon slice, this time leaving a long tail in order to assemble the final product.

Completed crochet lemon
Finished product, lemon slice with details

assembly

With wrong sides facing in/right sides facing out, sew both pieces together.  Using a tapestry needle or your crochet hook, weave the yarn tail from one of the slices around the edges of each to connect.  Insert the string through the back loops of each stitch and continue weaving until all sides are sewn together.

Optional:  If you want your lemon slice to be stiff, consider adding a piece of cardboard between both pieces prior to sewing together.

lemon slice crochet pattern end

Repeat this pattern as many times as you’d like to create lemon slices for your kids to serve up a family tea party.

Check out more of my free kitchen patterns for Teddy’s Kitchen to create a full pantry.

Thanks for following along and please share your creations with me on Facebook or Instagram.

If pattern is used to create product inventory to be sold, pattern source must be disclosed to buyer.

Additional Crochet Patterns by Schutt Farms

Posted on

How to Crochet a Pierogi

Pierogi Crochet Pattern by: Madison – Schutt Farms

I love crocheting new play food for Teddy’s kitchen.  It’s an affordable way to create customized toys as opposed to buying the standard plastic play food. It’s also an extremely affordable option next to purchasing the some of the wood play food options available in market today.

I was inspired to make pierogis for Teddy’s kitchen for a few reasons: (1) Pierogis for breakfast is a staple at my paternal grandparents’ house when we visit. Whenever we have pierogis I think of them, which is why this was a food I definitely needed to create for our own play kitchen. (2) It is not easy to find affordable, play food pierogis.

This is such a quick and easy project; therefore, you can create multiple crochet pierogis for your kids to cook for the whole family in their kitchen.

CROCHET PATTERN INFORMATION

MATERIAL

This post may contain affiliate links. This means that if you purchase products through these links, I may receive commission at no extra cost to you.

Crochet Hook size G, 4.00 mm., scissors, fiber fill/soft stuffing, and tapestry needle (to weave in ends, if preferred).

If you’re new to crochet, you can get started building your tools with this set of hooks from Amazon. You get the most product for your money. If you already have a lot of hooks, just not in size G yet, you can order just this hook. I would suggest in investing in an ergonomic hook with a larger handle. Almost all of my food creations use this size hook, so it’s a worth it upgrade.

Medium, Size 4 Yarn

Here are the brand and colors I used, but similar colors in other size 4 yarn will yield similar results.

Brand: I love this cotton (sold at Hobby Lobby). Colors #: 48 Taupe

STITCHES / ABBREVIATIONS

Single Crochet (SC): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through the stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Half Double Crochet (HDC): Yarn over, insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through the stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Increase (INC): Single crochet twice in the same stitch. This would increase the stitch count by 1 each time completed.

Back Loop Only (BLO): Referring to where to insert the hook for the next stitch. Opposed to inserting the hook into the stitch, insert the hook from the top in the back loop only.

Crochet Pattern Start

In color 48 Taupe, Create slip knot, chain 2.

First Round: Round 1:  In second chain from hook, complete 6 SC. (In slip knot, the first chain) pull tail tight to form a circle with stitches (6 SC).

Visual after 6 SC in second loop from hook.
Image after 6 SC, prior to pulling tail tight.

Second Round: * INC, repeat from * 5 more times (12 SC).

Third Round: * SC, INC, repeat from * 5 more times (18 SC).

Fourth Round: * 2 SC, INC, repeat from * 5 more times (24 SC).

Fifth Round: * 3 SC, INC, repeat from * 5 more times (30 SC).

Sixth Round: * 4 SC, INC, repeat from * 5 more times (36 SC).

Seventh Round: * 5 SC, INC, repeat from * 5 more times (42 SC).

Visual of crochet pierogi after multiple rounds before closing.
Image after 7th round.

From here, we are going to close the pierogi and work this step as a row to sew the pierogi shut.  These steps will be worked into the BLO of the top and bottom in order to close the pierogi.  Note: prior to fully closing pierogi, stuff with fiber fill. 

Eighth Row: Fold circle in half, CH 1, * HDC in BLO [of both top and bottom stitch], 3 HDC in BLO, repeat from * 9 more times. (40 HDC). CH 1, Cut tail. Weave in ends

Image of folded pierogi, ready to HDC across the outside edge.
Image of folded pierogi, ready to HDC across the outside edge.
Image of first HDC, inserting hook in Back Loops Only.
Image of first HDC, inserting hook in Back Loops Only.
Image of when to stuff with fiber fill.
Image of when to stuff with fiber fill.

crochet pattern end

Check out more of my free kitchen patterns for Teddy’s Kitchen to create a full pantry.

Thanks for following along and please share your creations with me on Facebook or Instagram.

If pattern is used to create product inventory to be sold, pattern source “Pattern by Schutt Farms” must be disclosed to buyer.

Additional Crochet Patterns by Schutt Farms

Posted on

How to Crochet a Pancake

Pancake Crochet Pattern by: Madison – Schutt Farms

Pancake Crochet Pattern Title Page

Play kitchen food is one of my favorite categories for crochet projects. First, they are small, beginner friendly projects. Therefore, you can create many projects in a short amount of time. Second, they are win, win all around for the family.  I get to practice mindfulness and receive the self-help benefits that come with crocheting, and my kids get one-of-a-kind handmade toy from mom, which they tend to appreciate more than handmade clothes. 

This was one of my first creations for Teddy’s Kitchen;  I wanted to start simple – and what is easier than a quick circle? 

MATERIALS

This post may contain affiliate links. This means that if you purchase products through these links, I may receive commission at no extra cost to you.

Crochet Hook size G, 4.00 mm., scissors, and tapestry needle (to weave in ends, if preferred).

If you’re new to crochet, you can get started building your tools with this set of hooks from Amazon. You get the most product for your money. If you already have a lot of hooks, just not in size G yet, you can order just this hook. I would suggest in investing in an ergonomic hook with a larger handle. Almost all of my food creations use this size hook, so it’s a worth it upgrade.

Medium, Size 4 Yarn

Here are the brand and colors I used, but similar colors in other size 4 yarn will yield similar results.

Brand: I love this cotton (sold at Hobby Lobby). Colors #: 80 Antique Gold, 48 Taupe Optional Colors #: 326 Curry (Yellow)

STITCHES / ABBREVIATIONS

Chain (CH): Yarn over and pull a loop back through

Slip Stitch (SS): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Single Crochet (SC): Insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through the stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Double Crochet (DC): Yarn over, insert hook in desired stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through the stitch, yarn over and pull through two loops, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Increase (INC DC): Double crochet twice in the same stitch. This would increase the stitch count by 1 each time completed.  

Back Loop Only (LO): Referring to where to insert the hook for the next stitch. Opposed to inserting the hook into the stitch, insert the hook from the top in the back loop only.

crochet PATTERN START

In color 80 Antique Gold, Create slip knot, chain 3.

First Row: In 3rd chain from hook, 12 DC, pull tail tight to form circle, SS to join first and last DC. [12 DC]

Image after round 1, and chain 2 to start round 2.
Image after round 1, and chain 2 to start round 2.

Second Row: CH 2, (Note: this chain two that starts each row will count as the last stitch in the row) INC DC 11 x, DC, join to CH 2 with SS. [24 DC]

Third Row:  CH 2, * DC, INC DC, repeat from * 11 x, DC, SS to join to CH 2. [36 DC]

Fourth Row: CH 2, * 2 DC, INC DC, repeat from * 11x, DC, SS to join to CH 2. [48 DC], cut tail and fasten off.

Repeat steps to create two circle pancake pieces.

Next, take both pancake pieces, and stack right sides facing out. 

Assembly: Fifth Row: Using the lighter color yarn, 48 Taupe, attach to pancake and slip stitch around the outsides of the pancakes through the BLO around to sew pancake shut.

Image of where to insert your hook to attach the two pancake pieces together with slip stitch.

Note:  If you want to create a stiff pancake that doesn’t bend/fold, consider adding a piece of cardboard between the pancake slices prior to joining.

Optional crochet pattern

If you want to create the butter square on top of the pancake – add these steps.

In 326 Curry, CH 5, turn.

First Row: In second chain from hook, 4 SC, CH 1, turn.

Second Row: In second chain from hook, 4 SC, CH 1, turn.

Third Row: In second chain from hook, 4 SC, CH 1, turn.

Fourth Row: In second chain from hook, 4 SC, CH 1, turn.

Fifth Row: In second chain from hook, 4 SC, cut and fasten off, ensure to leave a long enough tail to sew onto the pancake.

CRochet Pattern EnD

Repeat this pattern as many times as you’d like to create an entire batch of pancakes for your kids to serve up a family feast.

Check out more of my free kitchen patterns for Teddy’s Kitchen to create a full pantry.

Thanks for following along and please share your creations with me on Facebook or Instagram.

If pattern is used to create product inventory to be sold, pattern source “Pattern by Schutt Farms” must be disclosed to buyer.

Check out more patterns by Schutt Farms.